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Louis Vuitton’s New Boutique in Lille Was Once a Mecca for Oysters – WWD


For top-flying Louis Vuitton, you may say the luxurious world is its oyster — and now it has L’Huitrière, an Artwork Deco landmark in Lille, France, that has been related to superb shellfish since 1928. (Huître is the French phrase for oyster.)

On Thursday, Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief government officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and Michael Burke, chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton, traveled to the town in northern France to christen a most uncommon, colourful and atmospheric Vuitton boutique.

Residence to a Michelin-star restaurant till 2015, L’Huitrière has been painstakingly renovated over the previous 12 months, preserving its listed facade and totally tiled interiors, reflecting a time when it additionally bought recent shellfish and hosed down the partitions and ground on the finish of the day.

Vuitton known as on a number of specialist craftspeople — in ironwork, marble, glass-paste marquetry, limestone, sandstone and brick — to transform the area right into a two-level boutique that might accommodate a broader product assortment than the earlier Lille location a stone’s throw away. Some 30 native firms had been conscripted.

“It’s the epitome of made-to-order. Every square inch has been restored to its original state, down to the hinges,” Burke enthused in an interview on Thursday. “It makes the store unique, and at the end of the day, this is what people are looking for, unique experiences.”

l'Huitrière Louis Vuitton Lille

L’Huitrière is an architectural and cultural landmark in Lille since 1928.
STEPHANE MURATET

The chief estimates that about half of Vuitton’s shops in Europe are situated in buildings designated as historic monuments, together with in Paris, Munich, Hamburg, Vienna, Luxembourg, Florence, Rome, Brussels, Copenhagen, Oslo, Barcelona and Amsterdam. Final February, the model additionally inaugurated a leather-based items workshop housed in the historic Abbaye building in Vendôme, which dates again to the eleventh century and variously housed a Benedictine monastery and a cavalry regiment.

Whereas most firms shun listed buildings, Vuitton actively scouts them, prizing the places for the distinctive structure, historical past and ambiance, despite the challenges, intricacies and time calls for of restoration. In Lille, for instance, between 20 and 30 p.c of the ceramic tiles wanted to be reproduced in bespoke colours, and the fridges, storage cabinets and kitchen worktops had been additionally preserved.

“It’s a lot more rewarding, interesting and long-term-looking than building a shopping center out in the boonies,” Burke mentioned, additionally suggesting it’s extra accountable to repurpose buildings as an alternative of demolishing them.

He characterised the restoration of historic constructions as a large-scale type of “recycling and upcycling” that in the end has a optimistic impression on cities. L’Huitrière sat empty for years earlier than Vuitton swooped in with a lease and a will to revive its former glory.

Situated at 3 Rue des Chats-Bossus in what is taken into account Previous Lille, L’Huitrière was designed by architect Gaston Trannoy and is taken into account a masterpiece of ornamental arts from the interval. The facade boasts a pediment carved with floral motifs and a cluster of grapes; a bay window buttressed by a stylized oyster shell, and mosaic panels depicting the undersea world. The unique signal, even bigger than the Louis Vuitton insignia, is flanked by two stained glass sea urchins.

The boutique unfurls like an house, with purses organized on bookshelves, and rooms appointed with classic furnishings, together with a desk by Guillerme and Chambron, two designers from the Nineteen Fifties hailing from northern France.

There are two distinctive fireplaces by ceramist Emile Miller, who participated within the common exhibitions the place Vuitton, based in 1854, gained renown as a trunkmaker and specialist in items for journey. A small exhibition of trunks is a wink to this legacy.

Equipment, perfumes and journey gadgets are displayed over two flooring linked by a monumental staircase with a railing etched in Artwork Deco patterns. Dotted right here and there are design objects often known as Objets Nomades, together with a lantern by Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby, a desk by Atelier Biagetti, and vases by Tokujin Yoshioka.

When Vuitton’s retail workforce prompt utilizing what was the restaurant’s cozy again room for inventory, Burke insisted it stay a part of the retail ground. Right here girls’s ready-to-wear is showcased.

Males’s ready-to-wear and footwear are among the many new classes the L’Huitrière location can accommodate. At about 4,850 sq. toes, the brand new Lille retailer is greater than thrice greater than the earlier location. Vuitton mentioned it doubled the dimensions of the employees for the brand new boutique, which opens to the general public on Friday.

Vuitton has an extended historical past with Lille, as does its high executives.

Vuitton execs Lille

Michael Burke, Bernard Arnault and Antoine Arnault.
Courtesy of LVMH

Arnault, who was born in close by Roubaix, was a daily patron of the restaurant early in his enterprise profession. After attending the elite French navy and engineering institute École Polytechnique in Paris, Arnault returned to his hometown to take over the household development enterprise.

Final July, Arnault was again in Lille to inaugurate a new vocational training program LVMH created with the enterprise faculty EDHEC and named after the luxurious titan’s father, Jean Arnault.

Burke attended EDHEC, and when he graduated, he invited his mother and father for dinner at L’Huitrière to thank them. “It bankrupted me,” he recalled with a chuckle. “It was THE restaurant” the place a who’s-who of native enterprise, political and cultural glitterati had been escorted to the eatery’s again room, prized for its fire, privateness and proximity to the cathedral and canal it as soon as abutted.

“It’s a bit of a homecoming for Bernard ⁠— and for me,” Burke mentioned.

Vuitton has operated a boutique in Lille since 1909, one of many French agency’s early growth vectors past Paris. A London retailer opened in 1885, Good in 1908, and Cannes in 1924.

The bigger Lille boutique alerts its “loyalty to all regions of France,” in line with the corporate, which added footwear to its Bordeaux location a number of weeks in the past, and plans to inaugurate an enlarged location in Lyon in September than can accommodate ready-to-wear and footwear. A brief males’s boutique is slated to open in Cannes this summer season, permitting its Boulevard de la Croisette everlasting retailer to be totally devoted to girls’s classes for 5 months.

The model presently operates 10 shops in Paris and 12 in different French cities together with Courchevel, Marseille, Monaco, Strasbourg, Toulouse and Deauville, the latter additionally housed in a listed constructing. Staffing in shops outdoors of Paris has elevated by about 30 p.c since 2019.

Burke defined that secondary French cities have been flourishing lately, with the pandemic additional spurring a migration from the metropolis of Paris.

“These cities where the quality of life is much higher are really developing. Wealth is being created there and wealth is moving there,” he defined.

France accounted for about 6 p.c of LVMH’s enterprise in 2021, however it doesn’t break down efficiency by model.

“Our European business is very strong with Europeans,” Burke supplied with a smile.

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