MILAN – Paul Surridge is in his ingredient. “I grew up in menswear, it’s effortless for me,” stated Surridge, presenting his first Corneliani Circle capsule throughout Milan Males’s Trend Week on the model’s showroom.
Easy was additionally the look he was striving for with the gathering, though performance can be key in his vocabulary. “Beautiful doesn’t work if it’s pointless,” contended the British designer.
Surridge joined the storied Italian model in Might and he has been specializing in conventional menswear archetypes and sartorial separates for Corneliani. “This was a natural collaboration and I went back to discipline, clothes that are meaningful and last a lifetime, which to me is real sustainability,” stated the British designer.
Surridge, who left his position as creative director of Roberto Cavalli in 2019, after a two-year stint on the model, has been tasked with serving to Corneliani’s relaunch and repositioning after a interval of monetary struggles. Corneliani is majority-owned by Bahrain-based fund Investcorp.
The Circle assortment was launched with the spring 2020 season, reinforcing the model’s dedication to a extra sustainable mannequin and its rising focusing on of the brand new era of environmentally acutely aware customers.
A graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins, Surridge was beforehand artistic guide at Pimples Studios in Stockholm, with accountability for coordination of the menswear collections. Earlier than that, he was artistic director of Z Zegna from 2011 to 2014.
Earlier, Surridge was design director of males’s at Jil Sander, reporting to then-creative director Raf Simons. He honed his abilities at Calvin Klein and Burberry, working with Christopher Bailey from 2003 to 2007.
“Well-being, feeling at ease” is a precedence for the designer, who expressed his “real joy” at having the ability to work immediately with the manufacturing unit and the Corneliani artisans who make the garments.
Arriving on the firm, he stated he felt he might work with “a white slate,” whereas being “sensitive to the needs of the brand and its history.”
Reflecting his expertise with materials and textures, a blazer in wool, cotton and hemp with a micro geometric sample was worn over wide-legged Bermuda shorts. Cavalry twill or tropical bi-stretch natural wool characterised a number of jackets. An elongated windowpane examine blazer was worn over a white T-shirt and white chinos. No garment was constricting or form-fitting. Proportions had been simplified to convey an elevated ease and angle.
Tailoring is Corneliani’s core enterprise, however right here it was rendered softer, though with precision and detailing,
An outsized quick sleeved shirt in natural cotton with a rattan print was impressed by the artisans’ hand-weaving and added a casual contact to the gathering.
“True luxury is the confidence that a man senses when feeling comfortable and at ease in his clothes,” Surridge concluded.